On the rise: Ready to Sew Pio

This week I finished one of the first pieces from my autumnal WFH capsule; the Ready to Sew Pio pants and have been really enjoying wearing them!

It’s no secret that I really like Ready to Sew patterns -available in French, Spanish and English their patterns always have simple silhouettes with an interesting deisgn feature, and most importantly for me several variation options or potential for hacking.

I’ve guarded a burning lust for elastic waist pants for a while now and when the Pio came along it felt like the perfect pairing of a full elastic waist and an interesting pocket feature so I couldn’t wait to give them a go. I had a little trouble with the fit at first, but think I’m well on my way to creating my dream pants!

I made a size 40 based on my measurements, using a lovely sanded tencel twill from Patterns and Plains in the UK. The fabric is very drapey, quite lightweight and feels lovely on the skin.

The pattern instructions were easy to follow and having the pockets constructed from different pieces rather than one long origami-esque piece made them easier to construct in my opinion. The waistband is folded width-ways then sewn on; the edge then finished and pressed down.

When I’d completed the garment and tried it on it before hemming it was clear I had some fitting to do. The front crotch was really baggy and when hoiking the trousers up to where they felt comfortable they were almost hitting my underboob!

Doing some research online and looking at the #pioreadytosew tag I could see some others had the same issue and I needed to shorten the rise of the pants. This means the area just below the waistband – by removing some of the height of this I’d hopefully amend the problem.

As I’d already made the pants from my good fabric (keen), I did this by removing the waistband and cutting down the pants by about 2inches, then reattaching the waistband. I was then really happy with the result – the pants sit in the right spot now and feel really comfy.

To do this adjustment next time I would need to remove the rise from the pattern piece using the lengthen/shorten line and adjust the pattern piece accordingly. This does bring up the pockets more than intended on the original pattern but I don’t mind them higher personally.

I’m really happy with the finish of the trousers and how they sit, however would like to work on the calves. As you can see the central seam bends slightly inwards when worn – not a massive deal in the big picture but it’s really irritating me so I want to investigate why this is and will report back what I find! It’s all part of the sewing process – slowly I’m learning to fit to my body, take my time with adjustments and find the perfect fit through research and speaking to our community.

All in all I really enjoyed this sew – there’s quite a few pieces but they come together really nicely and are very comfortable to wear. As a size 40 (40.5 inch hip) I got them out of about 1.4m 60” wide fabric.

If you’re making pants and need to make adjustments, the following resources are really useful and clear:

Closet Core Patterns pants fitting tutorial

Seamwork pants tutorial